We opted for a leisurely start to the Labor Day weekend, arriving at the Paria Contact Station at 4:00 pm on Saturday to pickup our permit. Thunder boomed in the distance and dark skies threatened from the SW - the perfect direction for a direct hit! The road from the highway to the White House TH was only 1 mile but was impassable due to a recent mudflow. The surprisingly non-conservative ranger handed us the permit and 4 wag bas and sent us on our way with his optimistic parting opinion "it will hold off for a few more hours".
We parked and packed our backpacks at the mud flow Impass! We were all set except for the imminent downpour. Then Mossi came up limp. Licking his paw and refusing to bear wait. We decided to retreat to the car and let the storm pass. Mossi cuddle up in the floor board to nap, and that's when we knew something was really wrong because Aussie's don't curl up for naps when their's palpable tension/indecision in the conversation about what to do next.
We waited out the downpour while listening to our audiobook. Dani wanted to start the hike and keep tabs on Mossi, thinking that we could always bail in the morning. Once the rain abated the sun came out in full force and the wash below flashed again! Sending a river of mud across the road and cutting us off from heading downstream into Paria Canyon.
We used to opportunity to wander around the braided river channels testing out Mossi's paw, and low and behold he was fine! He tends to be a softie about injuries but this time he really had us fooled.
Hornworm. These turn into Hawk Moths!
We spent the night in the upper stretches of Paria Canyon near the powerlines. The muck and mud was too much to navigate. The river also surged to 100 cfs in the early morning blocking any hope of continuing into the narrows without a boat. We turned back without putting forth much effort, knowing that we were defeated, and becoming the second UtahTransplants to be turned away from the Paria.
We took off our shoes and walked in the mud to the Nautilus, the trailhead attraction. There's walking barefoot on the beach and then there is walking barefoot in the muddy silt of a flash flood shining in the sun. The latter is obviously messier but much more enjoyable. Then we wrapped up and did what we do best, which is wander the desert to see what we might find.
We decided to head north towards the reef country that we could see from the Paria. Racing another rainstorm we hightailed north on shale/clay hoping to outrun the rain and find a place to setup so that the soils could have another chance to dry out while we explored. We "weavered" for a few minutes on whether to backpack and decided to car camp near the TH to Hackberry Wash
We wandered the desert, napped, snacked, soaked our footsies in the river.
We surprised ourselves over and over by stepping onto pockets of seemingly solid ground that turned out to be quicksand. We started using Mossi as a scout for susceptible ground. He always wants to be in front.
We started calling our hikes on this trip "first tracks" because the desert has a special undisturbed appearance after heavy rains. The reds are deeper and the greens are more vibrant. The contrast between is stunning.
Beautiful clear pothole waters in the pollywog pools. We stopped here near the shade of a Ponderosa pine and watched the aquatic insects, tadpoles and dragonflies. We even found desert mushrooms (new one for me).
Past the pollywog pools was the subway to heaven.
High on the reef the views were stunning
Writing this down so that we remember. We made a plan for our future home. One wall will be a red rock, veneer/concrete but realistic. A cottonwood tree will grow out of an alcove inside the house, surrounded by glass so that it seems like the trunk is inside the home. We set a new life goal to leave the USA and work abroad once our current professional goals/milestones are met.
Especially the view of this rock formation. We plan to return to this area some day and explore this rock formation and the interesting slot canyon that drains from its flanks through the reef. No maps, No beta, No TRs, we will show up and see what we find.
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